I want to redo the finish.  What should I use?

Most boards are finished with shellac. Brushing or spraying on a light coat of shellac will probably restore the finish like new.  Light sanding with fine sandpaper, such as 400 grit, before and between coats, will help too.

Should you wish to strip the finish completely, shellac dissolves in alcohol.

Please beware that we apply any paint on your board between layers of shellac, so stripping back the finish may remove paint too.

On rare occasion, we use polyurethane to finish boards, particularly those with padauk wood and other similar alcohol-soluble natural coloring.  Even with this finish, a fresh layer of shellac on top should work fine.


How long will my board look like new?

Protected from the elements, your board should last for many, many years.

We do see the appearance of “character” as a positive for the board. Small dings, dents, and scratches add to the sense of history of a well-used and cherished board.

What are your pegs made of?

What are your pegs made of?

Our boards come with metal pegs as standard.  Materials include Stainless Steel, Black Steel, Brass, Copper, and Aluminum.

We also have a range of painted and natural wooden pegs which we can swap out if requested.

You can see our pegs on the Pegs and Accessories page.

Will the wood remain flat in my climate?

Wood will do what wood will do!  We drum-sand each board completely flat before we drill and engrave it.

However, when we add hundreds of holes, engraving, pockets, and finishing, sometimes the wood reacts, especially well-figured and wide (over 12 inches) boards.

Wood can do all kinds of crazy things – warp, twist, cup, crook (wain), kink, and even crack – as the internal tensions are released and the moisture content re-settles.

Sometimes this happens within hours and sometimes not for years.  Changes in climate – humidity, and temperature – can also instigate these changes.

Again, we can do little to correct this natural occurrence, except to offer extra felt pads that can be applied underneath to re-balance the board.

Often we use a smaller pad or two under a larger one to add even more depth where needed.

If you have an issue with movement in your board, please get in touch with us and we’ll arrange for a selection of felt pads to be sent out to you.

If we notice the beginnings of movement in your board before shipping, we’ll include extra pads for you with the board.

Sometimes, giving the board a little time to acclimatize is all that is needed. if the movement becomes too much for you and there’s an email and we will carry placement with you send an email to  admin@heirloomgraphics.com


Oak seems to cost a lot more?

Oak seems to cost a lot more?

Drilling and engraving oak and the subsequent painting is much more difficult and we price oak higher to cover the extra work involved.  It’s a porous wood with open pores but very strong, with a warm tone and often clear grain.

Walnut is even darker?

Walnut is even darker?

Yes – we use mainly black walnut which is usually very dark although we do sometimes find lighter planks. Engraving is usually filled with black paint to help visibility but the dark wood keeps the contrast low.