What’s The Point Of A Table Saw?

Let’s suppose you have been watching woodworking videos for some time and decided to finally get into the woodworking hobby. It looks intimidating now that it’s out of its box and is set up.

What’s the point of a table saw?

You already know what a table saw can do and why I consider it to be the most useful tool in any modern power-tool-based home woodworking shop. While most of the cuts a table saw makes can be made using other tools like a bandsaw or circular saw, a table saw makes them much faster and easier and allows for greater precision, accuracy, repeatability, and repeatability. Curved cuts are the only type of cut that a table saw can’t do. *Aside from advanced circular cutting jigs.

Table parts viewed

The table saw is a very simple tool. A table saw is essentially a larger, more powerful circular saw that’s mounted on a table. You don’t have to move the saw through the wood. Instead, the saw moves through the wood. This gives you more control. Some people have built their own table saws by placing a circular saw underneath a table. However, unless you’re an expert woodworker, this is not something to try. It is difficult to accurately do this because of the many safety concerns. This would make it incredibly difficult and dangerous to start your woodworking hobby.

My Rockwell-Delta Model 10 is older than my 31-year-old son I bought if off Marketplace from a guy who was retiring from woodworking as I was just entering into it. +They called it a contractor’s saw but had a fence capable of handling a full sheet of plywood. saw was given to me by several viewers almost 10 years ago. Although it has some quirks, it still works well and is an excellent example of a basic saw. This will look very similar to any entry-level table saw you may have. Although the saw looks large, it is really just the middle. These are extension tables. First, ensure that your saw is not plugged. Every table saw will come with a motor to spin a blade. A nut holds the blade to a post called an arbor. Install the blade so that the teeth face toward you. Do not tighten the nut too much. The blade will turn towards you. The wood would shoot out the opposite end if it turned in the other direction. There are many types of blades available, but I use a 50-tooth combination blade for all my needs.

You will also find a mechanism to tilt the blade for beveled cuts. My crank is included. I have a gauge that isn’t very accurate so I use a digital vel finder to make precise bevel cuts. It is important to ensure that the bevel locks in at 90 degrees to the table. This is where you’ll most likely have it set. It can be checked with a square. A riving knife will be included on your saw. Your saw will have a riving knife. This is the most important safety feature to prevent kickbacks. Never cut through lumber without it.

A blade guard will be included with your saw. It is a must-have for any woodworker. It helps prevent the wood from falling on the blade and your hand from skimming across the blade. I don’t use one. You can find the video in the description. As a beginner woodworker, it is important to use all safety accessories that came with your saw. After you have installed the blade, riving knife, and insert plate, you will need to place the plate. This will create a narrower gap that prevents wood cutoffs from dropping into the housing. It will also make your cut safer and more precise. Install an insert plate before you use a saw. It should be flush with the top of your table. Many saws come with a dust port at the back. My dust collection system is a shop vacuum. But there are other options. It will be much easier to clean up the sawdust from the source and make your shop less messy. You will also find less dust in the air.

Supporting your workpiece

Two methods of supporting wood are available for table saws when cutting. There will be a groove at the top of each blade, called a miter slot. It is used to measure miter gauges. The miter gauge supports the wood during crosscuts. It is usually used against the grain. You can also rotate the miter gauge to make angled cuts, as its name suggests. This is the standard look for miter gauges with saws. You can choose to upgrade to a model like the one I received from a viewer a while ago. Although it’s a bit expensive for me, it’s very accurate. Rip fence is the second accessory. It will come with a clamping mechanism to allow you to position it as close as possible to the blade. This is used to make rip cuts. These are cuts that run along the length of a board in a direction similar to the grain. A ruler is a feature that most saws have. This allows you to set the distance between your rip fence (the blade) and your saw. My ruler isn’t accurate, so I just use a tape measure to measure each cut. You can use one of two tools to cut through a board: the miter gauge, or the rip fence. Never both. *Non-through cuts like dados are an exception. Never attempt to cut a board by hand without support.

Power up!

Connect your saw to an outlet. Wear safety glasses and hearing protection. Flip the switch on and make sure nothing is on the table that could block the blade. You can get a feel for the machine’s reaction to powering on, and the sound it makes. Even with your hearing protection, the noises from saws can sometimes be quite jarring at first. Turn it on and off several times. Get used to turning it off. Many saws can be stopped with your knee. You should feel the power of the saw without ever cutting anything. Respect that power and don’t be afraid of it. The blade should be raised so that it is slightly higher than the wood’s thickness. This is a topic of debate. Some people believe that raising the blade as high as possible will produce a better cut. However, I prefer to cut finer cuts with the blade lower. I believe that the more the blade is exposed the better.

Let’s suppose you want to make this board 12 inches long. Take a measurement and mark the 12-inch point. Although I don’t draw lines often, I will do so here. It is important to know which side to cut when you make any cut. You will rarely want to cut straight down the line. Instead, you should consider the kerf or thickness of the blade. This is my workpiece. . . The 12″ piece that I would like to use in my project. . . I want to ensure that the outside edge of the line is lined up with the teeth of my blade. My board would be less than an eighth inch. If possible, I prefer to have my workpiece…the piece I measured and intend to use…supported by the miter gauge. Sometimes, you will need to support the cutoff side or waste side. It is important to keep the longer end supported. Do not try to support any wood against the miter gauge, as it could be too tippy.

After you have aligned your cut, remove the miter gauge from the board and put it back together.Put on your safety glasses and hearing protection. This is where I want you to visualize your cut. This is something I do for all procedures, no matter how simple. It should become a routine. Think about the cut that you are about to make. How will you turn the saw? How will you hold the saw against the miter gauge How will you position yourself during the cutting? What are you going to do when the board is finished? Imagine where your hands will be during the entire process, from the moment the saw is turned on to the end. As you become more skilled at complex cuts, this habit will be more important. If you have a dust extractor or shop vacuum, turn it on and start the saw.

Once the board is in place, hold it against the gauge. Position your body to the left side of the blade. Do not crosscut with it. You don’t want your body to cross the path of a cutoff part if it were to kick back. Kickback is much less likely when your riving knives are in place. Slowly move the miter gauge in the direction of the blade. Once the cut has been made, lift the board from the miter gauge using your left hand. Then pull the miter gauge back. Refrain from reaching over the blade to grab the cutoff piece. It should be left alone until the saw stops. Turn off the saw.

Using the rip fence

The rip fence is used to rip boards, thereby reducing them in length and making narrower boards. It can also be used to cut plywood and other large sheet goods. The rip fence should be used for boards that are longer than they are wide. Crosscutting with the rip fencing could result in the board twisting and binding between the blade and fence, which can lead to kickback. The rip fence will ensure that your workpiece is always against the fence. The cutoff will be on one side of the blade. This will allow you to control the wood throughout the entire process. You will need a push stick/push block to make cuts in the rip fence. Microjig’s GRR-Ripper is what I use. Although this is not an advertisement, I will include a link to the description. It supports the wood throughout the entire cut, giving me cleaner cuts as well as keeping my hands safe. Many people prefer to use push sticks, which is likely what your saw came with. No matter what you do, never use your fingers to complete the procedure. Adjust the length of the rip fence and lock it in position. The rip fence will be used almost exclusively by right-handed people.

For this demonstration, I will also use a 1×4 board. Let’s suppose I need a 2-inch board. What I will do is measure from the rip fence to the blade’s tooth 2″. Crosscutting is similar to cross-cutting. Remember to take into account the kerf. My board would be too narrow if I measured from outside the blade. Do an imaginary dry run. This will allow you to visualize where your hands will be during the entire cut, and how your push sticks and push blocks will be positioned. When using the rip fence, I recommend that you keep your eyes on the fence and not the blade to ensure that the fence and workpiece are always in contact.

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Take your first cut

Let’s begin with a crosscut. To do this, take down the rip fence. Place your miter gauge into the left slot. You may prefer to use the left slot if you’re left-handed, but this doesn’t really matter. You should test it to ensure that it moves smoothly and there is no play from one side to the other. If it is a bit lose, it should be able to be adjusted. Grab a scrap board. This example will be made with a 1×4 board. You can raise and lower the blade with the crank located at the front of your saw. This allows you to cut different wood thicknesses. Place your push sticks and push blocks where you can reach them during the cutting.

The most dishes in a minute yeah no problem but my friend just called me told me freaking got 12 to 12 to 18 months left to live too small and place the board against the rip fencing. You’ll likely need your hands to guide the wood in the blade for the first section. Your right hand should be pushing the board forward, while your left hand should press the board against the fence. Your hands should be at least 6 inches from the blade’s side and front. The push sticks will become more important as the blade gets closer to your board. One hook over the other end of your board and press down as well as forward. Keep three pressure directions in mind. Use your other push stick to move in the third direction against the fence. Continue pushing the board through the blade. Finish the cut with the push sticks. All you need to know about wood chisels